Basic Vehicle Control

BODY POSITION
To control a motorcycle well:

• Posture — Position yourself comfortably so you are able to operate all the controls and steer effectively.  This helps you interact well with your motorcycle and respond quickly to hazards.
• Seat — Sit far enough forward so that arms are slightly bent when you hold the handgrips.  Bending your arms lets you press on the handlebars without reaching too far.
• Hands — Hold the handgrips firmly to keep your grip over rough surfaces.  Start with your right wrist flat.  This will help you keep from accidentally using too much throttle.  Also, adjust the handlebars so your hands are even with or below your elbows.  This permits you to use the proper muscles for proper steering.
• Knees — Keep your knees against the gas tank to help you keep your balance as the motorcycle turns.
• Feet — Keep your feet firmly on the footrests to maintain balance.  Don’t drag your feet.  If your foot catches on something, you could be injured, and it could affect your control of the motorcycle.  Keep your feet near the controls so you can get to them easily if needed.  Also, don’t let your toes point downward — they may get caught between the road and the footrests.

SHIFTING GEARS
There is more to shifting gears than simply getting the motorcycle to accelerate smoothly.  Learning to use the gears when downshifting, turning, or starting on hills is equally important for safe motorcycle operation.

The gearshift lever is located in front of the left footrest and is operated by the left foot.  To shift “up” to a higher gear, position your foot under the shift lever and lift and release.  To downshift, press the shift lever down and release.  The shift lever changes one gear each time it is lifted or pressed down.  Whenever the lever is released, spring loading returns it to the center, where the mechanism resets for the next shift up or down.  A typical gear pattern is 1-N2-3-4-5.  The N is for neutral, which is selected by either a “half lift” from 1st gear or a “half press” from 2nd gear.

Most motorcycles have five gears, but some have four or six gears.

As your motorcycle increases speed, you will need to shift up to a higher gear.  Shift up well before the engine RPM reaches its maximum recommended speed.  As a general rule, shift up soon enough to avoid overrevving the engine, but not so soon that the engine lugs.

When Upshifting, Use a 3-Step Process:

1. Roll off the throttle as you squeeze the clutch lever.
2. Lift the shift lever firmly as far as it will go and release.
3. Smoothly ease out the clutch lever and adjust the throttle.

You should shift down through the gears using the clutch lever as you slow or stop.  You can also shift down when you need more power to accelerate.

Make certain you are riding slowly enough when you shift into a lower gear.  If not, the motorcycle will lurch, and the rear wheel may skid.  When riding downhill or shifting into first gear, you may need to use the brakes to slow sufficiently before downshifting safely.

When Downshifting, Use a 3-Step Process:

1. Roll off the throttle as you squeeze the clutch lever.
2. Press the shift lever down firmly and release.
3. Ease out the clutch lever as you roll on the throttle. Rolling on the throttle slightly while smoothly easing out the clutch lever can help the engine come up to speed more quickly and make the downshift smoother.  Shifting to a lower gear causes an effect similar to using the brakes.  This is known as engine braking.  To use engine braking, shift down one gear at a time and ease out the clutch lever through the friction zone between each downshift.  Stay in the friction zone until the engine speed stabilizes.  Then ease out the lever fully until ready for the next downshift.  Usually, you shift gears one at a time, but it is possible to shift through more than one gear while the clutch lever is squeezed.

   Remain in first gear when stopped so you can move out quickly if needed.

   Work toward a smooth, even clutch lever release, especially when downshifting. It is best to change gears before entering a turn.  However, sometimes shifting while in the turn is necessary. If so, remember to do so smoothly.  A sudden change in power to the rear wheel can cause a skid.

BRAKING
Improper braking remains a significant contributing factor in many motorcycle crashes.  Most motorcycles have two brake controls: one for the front wheel and one for the rear wheel.  Always use both brakes when slowing or stopping.  The front brake is more powerful and can provide 70% or more of your total stopping power.  The front brake is safe to use if you use it properly.

Maximum straight-line braking is accomplished by fully applying both front and rear brakes without locking either wheel.  To do this:

• Squeeze the front brake smoothly, firmly, and with progressively more force.  Do not grab the brake lever or use abrupt pressure.
• As the motorcycle’s weight transfers forward, more traction becomes available at the front wheel, so the front brake can be applied more firmly after braking begins.
• Keep your knees against the tank and your eyes up, looking well ahead.  This helps you stop the motorcycle in a straight line.
• Apply light-to-lighter pressure to the rear brake pedal to prevent a rear wheel skid.  As weight transfers forward, less traction is available at the rear.

  Using both brakes for even “normal” stops will help you develop the proper skill of using them properly in an emergency.  Squeeze the front brake and press down on the rear.  Grabbing at the front brake or jamming down on the rear can cause the brakes to lock, resulting in control problems.

Braking in a Corner
Whenever a motorcycle is leaned over, the available traction for braking is reduced.  The greater the lean angle, the greater the possibility of the tires losing traction.

To stop as quickly and as safely as possible in a curve, and depending on road and traffic conditions, try to get the motorcycle as perpendicular to the road as possible, then brake.  If conditions do not allow, brake smoothly and gradually, but do not apply as much braking force as you would if the motorcycle were straight up.  As you slow, you can reduce your lean angle, and as more traction becomes available for braking, you can apply the brakes more firmly, so that by the time the motorcycle is stopped, it is straight up and the handlebars are squared.  Doing this well takes practice.

Linked and Integrated Braking Systems
Some motorcycles have linked braking, which connects the front and rear brakes and applies braking pressure to both brakes when either the front lever or rear pedal is applied.  An integrated braking system is a variation of the linked system in which partial front braking is applied whenever the rear brake is activated.  Consult the owner’s manual for a detailed explanation of the operation and effective use of these systems.

Anti-Lock Braking Systems (ABS)
ABS is designed to prevent wheel lock-up and avoid skids when stopping in panic situations.  ABS operates when too much pressure is applied to either the front or rear brake control.  If electronic sensors detect a possible wheel lock, brake pressure is released, then reapplied to maintain maximum braking effectiveness if the brake controls remain applied.

ABS can release and reapply pressure more than 15 times per second.

TURNING
Approach turns and curves with caution.  Riders often try to take curves or turns too fast.  When they can’t hold the turn, they end up crossing into another lane of traffic or going off the road.  Or, they overreact and brake too hard, causing a skid and loss of control.

The following four steps will help you learn to turn effectively.  Note that in actual use, these steps may overlap:

1. Slow — Reduce speed before the turn by closing the throttle and, if necessary, applying both brakes.
2. Look — Look through the turn to where you want to turn, just your head, not your shoulders, and keep your eyes level with the horizon.
3. Press — To turn, the motorcycle must lean.  To lean the motorcycle, press on the handgrip in the direction of the turn.  Press left handgrip — lean left — go left. Press right-hand grip — lean right — go right.  The higher the speed in a turn, or the sharper the turn, the greater the lean angle needs to be.
4. Roll — Roll on the throttle to maintain or slightly increase speed.  This helps stabilize the motorcycle.

Keeping Your Distance

It is good to have a “cushion of space” separating yourself from other vehicles on the roadway.  This will provide you with a clear view of traffic situations, so that if someone else makes a mistake, you will have:

• More time to respond.
• More space to maneuver, including an escape path if necessary.

LANE POSITIONS
Successful motorcyclists know that they are safer when clearly seen by others.  In some ways, the size of the motorcycle can work to your advantage.  Each traffic lane gives a motorcycle three paths of travel, as indicated in the illustration.

Your lane choice should help you:

• Increase your ability to see and be seen.
• Avoid others’ blind spots.
• Avoid surface hazards.
• Communicate your intentions.
• Avoid windblast from other vehicles.
• Provide an escape path.
• Set up for turns.

Many motorcyclists consider the left third of the lane – the left tire track of automobiles – to be their default lane position.  But consider varying your lane position as conditions warrant, keeping in mind that no portion of the lane needs to be avoided — including the center.

You should position yourself in the portion of the lane where you are most likely to be seen, and you can maintain a space cushion around you.  Change position as traffic situations change.  Ride in path 2 or 3 if vehicles and other potential problems are on your left only.  Remain in path 1 or 2 if hazards are on your right only.  If vehicles are being operated on both sides of you, the center of the lane (path 2) is usually your best option.

Remember, the center third of the lane is where debris and oil drippings from cars collect, as well as where hazards such as surface covers are located.  Unless the road is wet, the typical center strip permits adequate traction.  You can operate to the left or right of the grease strip and still be within the center third of the traffic lane.  Avoid riding on large oil and grease buildups, which are usually found at busy intersections or toll booths.

Experienced riders rely on their own strategies and judgment.  One absolute, however, is to avoid riding in another vehicle’s blind spot.

FOLLOWING ANOTHER VEHICLE
“Following too closely” is a frequent factor in crashes involving motorcyclists.  In traffic, motorcycles need as much distance to stop as cars.  Normally, a minimum of two seconds' distance should be maintained when following a vehicle.

To gauge your following distance:

• Pick out a marker, such as a pavement marking or lamppost, on or near the road ahead.
• When the rear of the vehicle ahead passes the marker, count off the seconds: "one-thousand-one, one-thousand-two."
• If you reach the marker before you reach “two,” you are following too closely.

A two-second following distance leaves little room to stop or swerve if the driver ahead stops suddenly.  It also permits a better view of potholes and other hazards on the road.  A larger cushion of space is needed if your motorcycle takes longer than usual to stop.  If the pavement is slippery, if you cannot see through the vehicle ahead, or if traffic is heavy and someone may squeeze in front of you, open up a three- second or more following distance.

Keep well behind the vehicle ahead, even when you are stopped.  This will make it easier to get out of the way if someone bears down on you from behind.  It will also give you a cushion of space if the vehicle ahead starts backing up for some reason.

When riding behind a car, ride where the driver can see you in the inside rearview mirror.  Riding in the center portion of the lane should put you in view.

Riding at the far side of a lane may permit a driver to see you in a side-view mirror.  But remember that most drivers don’t look at their sideview mirrors nearly as often as they check the inside mirror.  If traffic conditions allow, the center of the lane is usually the best place for you to be seen by drivers ahead and to prevent others from encroaching on your space.

Being Followed
Speeding up to avoid someone following too closely can result in that person tailgating you at a higher speed.

A better way to handle tailgaters is to get them in front of you.  When someone is following too closely, try to let them pass.  If you can’t do this, slow down and open up extra space ahead to allow room for both you and the tailgater to stop.  This will also encourage them to pass.  If they don’t pass, you will have given yourself and the tailgater more time and space to react in case an emergency develops ahead.

You can also turn off the roadway and re-enter later, or use a parking area to do so.

PASSING

1. Ride in the left portion of the lane at a safe following distance to increase your line of sight and make you more visible.  Signal and check for oncoming traffic.  Use your mirrors and turn your head to check your blind spot.
2. When safe, move into the left lane and accelerate.  Select a lane position that doesn't crowd the car and provides space to avoid hazards in your lane.
3. Don’t linger in the blind spot.
4. Signal again, and complete mirror and head checks before returning to your original lane, and then cancel the signal.  Remember, passes must be completed within posted speed limits, and only where permitted.  Know your signs and roadway markings!

Being Passed
When you are being passed from behind, stay in the center portion of your lane.  Riding close to the passing vehicle could put you in a hazardous situation.

Avoid being hit by considering:

• The other vehicle — A slight mistake by you or the passing driver could cause a sideswipe.
• Extended mirrors — Some drivers forget that their mirrors hang out farther than their fenders.
• Objects thrown from windows — Even if the driver knows you're there, a passenger may not see you and might toss something at you or the road ahead of you.
• Blasts of wind from larger vehicles — They can affect your control.  You have more room for error if you are in the farther portion when hit by this blast than if you are closer to their lane.

LANE SHARING
Cars and motorcycles need a full lane to operate safely.  Lane sharing is usually prohibited.

Riding between rows of stopped or moving cars in the same lane can leave you vulnerable to the unexpected.  A hand could come out of a window; a door could open; a car could turn suddenly.  Discourage lane sharing by others.  Keep a center-portion position whenever drivers might be tempted to squeeze by you.  Drivers are most tempted to do this:

• In heavy, bumper-to-bumper traffic.
• When they want to pass you.
• When you are preparing to turn at an intersection.
• When you are moving into an exit lane or leaving a highway.

Merging Vehicles
Drivers on an entrance ramp may not see you on the highway.  Give them plenty of room.  Change lanes if one is open.  If there is no room for a lane change, adjust speed to open up space for the merging vehicle.

Vehicles Alongside
Do not ride next to cars or trucks in other lanes unless you have to.  You might be in the blind spot, and a vehicle could switch into your lane without warning.  Vehicles in the next lane also block your escape if you come upon danger in your own lane.  Speed up or drop back to find a place clear of traffic on both sides.

SEE

Good, experienced riders are always aware of what is going on around them.  They reduce their risk by using MSF’s three-step SEE strategy:

• Search
• Evaluate
• Execute

SEE will help you assess what is going on in traffic so you can plan and implement the safest course of action as traffic situations change.  Let’s look at each of these steps.

SEARCH
How assertively you search, and how much time and space you have, can eliminate or minimize risk.  As you search, focus on identifying potential escape routes, especially at or near intersections, shopping areas, and school and construction zones.

One way to search is to use your “Rider Radar” to aggressively scan the environment ahead of you, to the sides, and behind you to avoid potential hazards even before they arise.  There are three “lead times” to consider.  First, have at least a 2-second following distance.  Scanning your 4-second urgent path can give you time for a quick response if something goes wrong.

Anything that is within 4 seconds of your path is considered immediate because 4 seconds can provide enough time and space to swerve and/or brake for fixed hazards or for someone or something entering your path.

Finally, search for hazards that are further out, looking ahead to an area it would take about 12 seconds to reach.  This provides time to prepare for a situation before it becomes urgent.

Using the SEE strategy will help you to Search for a variety of factors, such as:

• Oncoming traffic that may turn left in front of you.
• Traffic coming from the left and from the right.
• Traffic approaching from behind.
• Hazardous road conditions that require you to be alert, especially in areas with limited visibility.  Visually “busy” surroundings could make you and your motorcycle harder to see.

EVALUATE
Evaluate means to think about how hazards can interact to create risks for you. Anticipate potential problems and have a plan to reduce risks:

• Road and surface characteristics such as potholes, guardrails, bridges, telephone poles, and trees may influence your riding strategy.
• Traffic control devices, including traffic signals, warning signs, and pavement markings, which will require you to carefully evaluate circumstances ahead.
• Vehicles and other traffic that may move into your path and increase the likelihood of a crash.  Consider your time and space requirements to maintain a margin of safety, and give yourself time to react if an emergency arises.
• Escape paths need to be available, and these can be in front or to the sides.

EXECUTE
Finally, Execute your decision with smoothness and precision.  To create more space and minimize harm from any hazard, take action by:

• Communicating your presence with lights and/or horn.
• Adjusting your speed by accelerating, stopping, or slowing.
• Adjusting your position and/or direction by swerving or changing lanes.

Adjust the speed to permit two hazards to separate.  Then deal with them one at a time as single hazards.  Decision-making becomes more complex when there are three or more hazards.  Evaluate the consequences of each and give equal distance to the hazards.

In potential high-risk areas, such as intersections, shopping areas, and school and construction zones, cover the clutch and both brakes to reduce the time you need to react.

Intersections

The greatest potential for conflict between you and other traffic is at intersections.

Apply the old adage “one step at a time” to handle multiple hazards.  Intersection can be in the middle of an urban area or at a driveway on a residential street — anywhere traffic may cross your path of travel.  Over one-half of motorcycle/car crashes are caused by drivers violating a rider’s right-of-way.  Cars turning left in front of you, including those turning left from the lane on your right, and cars on side streets pulling into your lane are the biggest dangers.  Your use of SEE at intersections for added time and space is critical.

There are no guarantees that others will see you.  Never count on “eye contact.”  Too often, a driver looks right at a motorcyclist and still fails to “see” him or her.  The only eyes that you can count on are your own.  If a car can enter your path, assume that it will.  Good riders are always “looking for trouble” — not to get into it, but to stay out of it.

Decrease your risk by being seen at intersections.  Ride with your headlight on and be in a lane position that provides the best view of oncoming traffic.  Provide a space cushion around the motorcycle that gives you an escape path.  When approaching an intersection where a vehicle driver is preparing to cross your path, slow down and select a lane position to increase your visibility to that driver.  Cover the clutch lever and both brakes to reduce reaction time.  As you enter the intersection, move away from the vehicle.  Do not change speed or position radically, as drivers might think you are preparing to turn.  Be prepared to brake hard and hold your position if an oncoming vehicle turns in front of you, especially if there is other traffic around you.

Blind Intersections
If you approach a blind intersection, move to the portion of the lane that will bring you into another driver’s field of the oncoming lane of traffic is signaling for a left turn, whether at an intersection or not.

In this picture, the rider has moved to the left portion of the lane — away from the parked car — so the driver on the cross street can see him earlier.

Remember, the key is to see as much as possible and remain visible to others while protecting your space.

If you have a stop sign or stop line, stop there first.  Then edge forward and stop again, just short of where the cross-traffic lane meets your lane.  From that position, lean your body forward and look around buildings, parked cars, or bushes to see if anything is coming.  Just make sure your front wheel stays out of the cross lane of travel while you’re looking.

Passing Parked Cars
When passing parked cars, stay toward the left of your lane.  You can avoid problems caused by doors opening, drivers getting out of cars, or people stepping from between cars.  If oncoming traffic is present, it is usually best to remain in the center-lane position to maximize your space cushion on both sides.

A bigger problem can occur if the driver pulls away from the curb without checking for traffic behind.  Even if he does look, he may fail to see you.

In either event, the driver might cut into your path.  Slow down or change lanes to make room for someone who might cut in.

Cars making a sudden U-turn are dangerous.  They may cut you off entirely, blocking the entire roadway and leaving you with nowhere to go.  Since you can’t tell what a driver will do, slow down and get the driver’s attention.  Use your horn and continue with caution.

Parking at the Roadside
If parking in a parallel parking space next to a curb, position the motorcycle at an angle with the rear wheel to the curb.  (NOTE: Some cities have ordinances that require motorcycles to park parallel to the curb.)

Increasing Conspicuity

In crashes with motorcyclists, drivers often say that they never saw the motorcycle.  From ahead or behind, a motorcycle’s outline is much smaller than a car’s.  Also, it’s difficult to see something you are not looking for, and most drivers are not looking for motorcycles.

A good strategy to use is to pretend you're invisible.  If you assume other motorists can't see you, you will tend to ride in a hyper-aware mindset and notice more details in your surroundings.

Even if a driver does see you coming, you aren’t necessarily safe.  Smaller vehicles appear farther away than they actually are.  It is common for drivers to pull out in front of motorcyclists, thinking they have plenty of time.  Too often, they are wrong.

However, you can do many things to make it easier for others to recognize you and your motorcycle.

CLOTHING
Most crashes occur during daylight hours.  Wear bright-colored clothing to increase your chances of being seen.  Remember, your body is half of the visible surface area of the rider/ motorcycle unit.

Bright orange, red, yellow, or green jackets/vests are your best bets for being seen.  Your helmet can do more than protect you in a crash.  Brightly colored helmets can also help others see you.

Any bright color is better than drab or dark colors.  Reflective, bright-colored clothing (helmet and jacket/vest) is best.

Reflective material on a vest and the sides of the helmet will help drivers approaching from the side spot you.  Reflective material can also be a big help for drivers both ahead and behind.

HEADLIGHT
A good way to help others see your motorcycle is to have the headlight on at all times.  Studies show that, during the day, a motorcycle with its light on is twice as likely to be noticed.  Use low beam at night and in fog.

SIGNALS
The signals on a motorcycle are similar to those on a car.  They tell others what you plan to do.

However, due to a rider’s added vulnerability, signals are even more important.  Use them anytime you plan to change lanes or turn.  Use them even when you think no one else is around.  Your signal lights make you easier to spot.  That’s why it’s a good idea to use your turn signals even when what you plan to do is obvious.

When you enter a freeway, drivers behind you are more likely to see your signal blinking and make room for you.

Turning your signal light on before each turn reduces confusion and frustration for the traffic around you.  Once you turn, make sure your signal is off, or a driver may pull directly into your path, thinking you plan to turn again.  Use your signals at every turn so drivers can react accordingly.  Don’t make them guess what you intend to do.

BRAKE LIGHT
Your motorcycle’s brake light is usually not as noticeable as the brake lights on a car.  If the situation will permit, help others notice you by flashing your brake light before you slow down.  It is especially important to flash your brake light before:

• You slow more quickly than others might expect (turning off a high-speed highway.)
• You slow where others may not expect it (in the middle of a block or at an alley.)
• You are stopped at an intersection with traffic approaching from behind.

If you are being closely followed, it’s a good idea to flash your brake lights before you slow down.  The tailgater may be watching you and not see something ahead that will make you slow down.  This will hopefully discourage them from tailgating and warn them of hazards ahead that they may not see.

USING YOUR MIRRORS
While it’s most important to keep track of what’s happening ahead, you can’t afford to ignore situations behind.

Traffic conditions can change quickly.  Knowing what’s going on behind is essential for you to make a safe decision about how to handle trouble ahead.

Frequent mirror checks should be part of your normal searching routine.  Make a special point of using your mirrors:

• When you are stopped at an intersection.  Watch cars coming up from behind.  If the drivers aren’t paying attention, they could be on top of you before they see you.
• Before you change lanes, make sure no one is about to pass you.
• Before you slow down, the driver behind may not expect you to slow down, or may be unsure about where you will slow.  For example, you signal a turn, and the driver thinks you plan to turn at a distant intersection, rather than at a nearer driveway.

Most motorcycles have rounded (convex) mirrors.  These provide a wider view of the road behind than flat mirrors do.  They also make cars seem farther away than they actually are.  If you are not used to convex mirrors, get familiar with them. (While you are stopped, pick out a parked car in your mirror.  Form a mental image of how far away it is.  Then, turn around and look at it to see how good your estimate was.)  Practice with your mirrors until you become a good judge of distance.  Even then, allow extra distance before you change lanes.

HEAD CHECKS
Checking your mirrors is not enough.  Motorcycles have “blind spots” like cars.  Before you change lanes, turn your head and look to the side for other vehicles.

On a road with several lanes, check the far lane and the one next to you.  A driver in the distant lane may head for the same space you plan to take.

Frequent head checks should also be part of your normal scanning routine.  Only by knowing what is happening all around you are you fully prepared to deal with it.

HORN
Be ready to use your horn to get someone’s attention quickly.

It is a good idea to give a quick beep before passing anyone who may move into your lane.

Here are some situations:

• A driver in the lane next to you is driving too closely to the vehicle ahead and may want to pass.
• A parked car has someone in the driver’s seat.
• Someone is in the street, riding a bicycle or walking.

In an emergency, sound your horn loudly and for a long time.  Be ready to stop or swerve away from the danger.

Keep in mind that a motorcycle’s horn isn’t as loud as a car’s — therefore, use it, but don’t rely on it.  Other strategies, such as having time and space to maneuver, are appropriate alongside the horn.

RIDING AT NIGHT
At night, it is harder for you to see and be seen.  Picking your headlight or taillight out of the car lights around you is not easy for other drivers.  To compensate, you should:

• Reduce your speed — Ride slower than you would during the day — particularly on roads you don’t know well.  This will increase your chances of avoiding a hazard.
• Increase distance — Distances are harder to judge at night.  Your eyes rely on a three-second following distance or more.  And allow more distance to pass and be passed.
• Use the car ahead — The headlights of the car ahead can give you a better view of the road than even your high beam can.  Taillights bouncing up and down can alert you to bumps or rough pavement.
• Use your high beam — Get all the light you can.  Use your high beam whenever you are not following or meeting a car.
• Be visible — Wear reflective materials when riding at night.
• Do not override your headlight — Do not let your total stopping distance exceed the distance your light beam illuminates.  Slow down so you can stop within the distance you can see.
• Be flexible about lane position — Change to the portion of the lane that is best to help you see, be seen, and maintain an adequate space cushion.

Crash Avoidance

No matter how careful you are, there will be times when you find yourself in a tight spot.  Your chances of getting out safely depend on your ability to take action quickly and properly.  Often, a crash occurs because a rider is not prepared or skilled in crash-avoidance maneuvers.

Know when and how to stop or swerve, two skills critical in avoiding a crash.  It is not always desirable or possible to stop quickly to avoid an obstacle.  Riders must also be able to swerve around an obstacle.  Determining which skill is necessary for the situation is important as well.

Studies show that most crash-involved riders:

• Under brake the front tire and over brake the rear.
• Did not separate braking from swerving, or did not choose swerving when it was appropriate.

The following information offers some good advice.

QUICK STOPS
To stop quickly, apply both brakes at the same time.  Don’t be shy about using the front brake, but don’t “grab” it either.  Squeeze the brake lever firmly and progressively.  If the front wheel locks, release the front brake lever immediately, then reapply it firmly.  At the same time, press down on the rear brake.  If you accidentally lock the rear brake on a good traction surface, you can keep it locked until you have completely stopped; even with a locked rear wheel, you can control the motorcycle if it is upright and going in a straight line.

Stopping Quickly in a Curve
Using both brakes in a turn is possible, although it should be done very carefully.  When leaning the motorcycle, some of the traction is used for cornering.  Less traction is available for stopping.  A skid can occur if you apply the brakes too hard.  Also, using the front brake incorrectly on a slippery surface may be hazardous.  Use caution and squeeze the brake lever; never grab.

If you must stop quickly while in a curve, first straighten and square the handlebars, then stop.  If you find yourself in a situation where straightening first is not possible, such as when there is a danger of running off the road in a left-hand curve or when facing oncoming traffic in a right-hand curve, apply the brakes smoothly and gradually.  As you slow, you can reduce your lean angle and apply more brake pressure until the motorcycle is straight, at which point you can apply maximum brake pressure.  Always straighten the handlebars in the last few feet of stopping to maintain your balance and remain upright.

SWERVING OR TURNING QUICKLY
Sometimes you may not have enough room to stop, even if you use both brakes properly.  You may encounter an unexpected object in your path.  Or the car ahead might squeal to a stop.  The only way to avoid a crash may be to turn quickly or swerve around it.

A swerve is a sudden change in direction.  Apply a small amount of hand pressure to the handle grip located on the side of your intended direction of escape.  This will cause the motorcycle to lean quickly.  The sharper the desired turn(s), the more the motorcycle must lean.

Keep your body upright and allow the motorcycle to lean in the direction of the turn while keeping your knees against the tank and your feet solidly on the footrests.  Let the motorcycle move underneath you.  Make your escape path the target of your vision. Press on the opposite handle grip once you’re clear to return you to your original direction of travel.

If the situation allows, separate braking from swerving.  Brake before or after – never while making an aggressive swerve.

MAXIMUM STRAIGHT-LINE BACKING
Maximum straight-line braking is accomplished by fully applying front and rear brakes without locking either wheel.  Keep your body centered over the motorcycle and look well ahead, not down.  This will help you keep the motorcycle as straight as possible, minimizing lean angle and the likelihood of the tires losing traction.

SKIDS
Front-Wheel Skids
If the front wheel locks, release the front brake lever immediately and reapply with less pressure.  Reapply the brake smoothly.  Front wheel skids result in immediate loss of steering control and balance.  Failure to fully release the brake lever immediately will result in a crash.

Rear-Wheel Skids
A skidding rear tire is a dangerous condition that can result in a violent crash.  Too much rear brake pressure causes rear-wheel lockup.  As soon as the rear wheel locks, your ability to change direction is lost.  To regain control, the brake must be released.  However, if the rear wheel is out of alignment with the front, there is a risk of a high-side crash.  This occurs when the wheels are out of alignment, and a locked rear wheel is released.  The motorcycle can abruptly snap upright, throwing the rider into the air ahead of the motorcycle’s path.  Even slight misalignment can result in a high-side crash.

CURVES
A primary cause of single-vehicle crashes is motorcyclists running wide in a curve or turn.  Every curve is different.  Be alert to whether a curve remains constant, gradually widens, gets tighter, or involves multiple turns.  Ride within your skill level and posted speed limits.

A good choice is to move to the center of your lane before entering a curve — and stay there until you exit.  This permits you to spot approaching traffic as soon as possible.  You can also adjust for traffic “crowding” the center line, or debris blocking part of your lane.

Your best path may not always follow the curve of the road.  Change lane position depending on traffic, road conditions, and the curve of the road.